Category Archives: Travel

Home By The Sea

It’s a Sunday morning on Mumbai’s Juhu beach. Enthusiastic day- break joggers have gone home and the long stretch of sand is largely empty, save for a few hawkers and strays who are curling up on the warm grains, too languid to stir from their place, even as we walk around them.

We have come here for a marine walk. To get to know the rich sea life that inhabits the shores of this vast city; the original residents of the megapolis that, though was formed of seven islands, is still a large island flanked by the Arabian sea.

We are ensconced by an expansive biodiversity of marine life, and in intrinsic and essential ways, more than we know, and care to acknowledge, our lives, ecosystems and our very survival hinges on respecting these life forms that create an invisible synergy between our lives, quite like the delicate dance of the moon and tides.

Though the rambling curve of Juhu beach is divided into the sandy part that begins somewhere near the Ramada Plaza hotel, the muddy section that snakes alongside Juhu Tara road, and the rocky portion that forms the backdrop of a native fishing community on the outskirts of Khar, -this demarcation is fluid, seamlessly flowing into each other. Just as our walk is getting into the rhythm of the sand, our feet feeling its shifting quality, it starts getting heavier and we realise that the loose sand has given way to a denser, cloying variety that sticks to our shoes and soon we are wading into an inlet that leaves our footprints in the mud along the shore. Gradually small pebbles get under our feet, we feel their crunch and roundness beneath our shoes and soon we are up against the big rocks.

We notice all this because we are walking gingerly, for when we move with awareness and look beneath our feet at the immense variety of life forms that permeate the waters, we are mindful of where we place our step, of what we step on.

Glinting on the shore, against the shimmering sand is a spectrum of bivalve molluscs and gastropods, with shells in colours and patterns so mesmerising that they are miniature masterpieces under the sun. In fact, sand is formed as the waves break these shells over time, and pound them into the proverbial million pieces like a clear night sky scattered with stars.

So many shapes, structures, shades and symmetries. We flit from one to the other, holding a magnifying glass and admiring the way nature has created such complex rhythms, such intricate systems, such sheer diversity- all working in complete and cohesive harmony to produce a symphony in the sea. We hold each gently, on the palm, for we now experience its life, its contribution to the whole of creation, its innate strength to survive over thousands of years, and yet these life forms look so fragile, so vulnerable in their beauty.

The ethereal sunset shell, a bivalve, whose outer lilac casing is designed to form the slanting rays of the sun; the turban shell whose spiral turns are akin to the human headgear; the Olivia which is slender and conical with a slit towards one end, quite like a lady wearing a shimmering slit gown; the Ambonium that is a bright red and is also called a button shell and it is indeed as cute as a button; three types of Donax, pearl white and pretty; my favourite, the window pane oyster whose shell is translucent and gossamer, like a glass painting, stained with hues of blue and purple, used to decorate chandeliers and as we hold it up , its timeless colours sparkle in the sunshine; the Psomania, with its sheen of white flecked with pink; the blue barnacles, immortalised by Captain Haddock to Tintin as he thundered, “billions of blistering blue barnacles!” Yes, they sting!

The hermit crab borrows the discarded shell of other molluscs and moves around in them- the original recycler! We see colonies of hermit crabs all in a variety of shells scurrying across the sand bed and marvel at the way Nature has a way of valuing and reusing everything She designs. And how wonderful Her mechanisms of coexistence are. For instance, the Decorator Worm gathers discarded shells, sticks them together with its saliva and makes tunnels to house itself! And all that in a space of a couple of inches. We see the Kavdi, a common sea shell that we have all gathered as children, the inside edge having teeth like structures. This was used as currency hundreds of years ago.

We watch the pink sea anemone sway its tentacles like a bevy of dancers synchronising to a beat. And on the boulders, we find oysters embedded in the rocks, the bivalves opened out like a fan. Climbing the rocks, we dip into the waters and discover the first multicellular animals in the world – the sponges, in a burst of colours -orange, yellow, blue and sapphire green- which have a singular opening through which they take in whatever food the current brings in, and the outgoing current carries away any waste material that they expel.

We have not only travelled to the outer reaches of the beach, but also to the edge of time. Overhead, the Terns, on white wings fly across the silent sky.

And we know we can go forward only by taking care of our marine life, helping preserve what was gifted to us, honouring all life forms, respecting the balance through which Nature functions, and understanding that we are but a mere part of the big picture, a speck in the ocean of time.IMG_6509IMG_6511IMG_6513IMG_6530IMG_6551IMG_6553IMG_6568IMG_6608IMG_6620IMG_6647IMG_6677IMG_6681IMG_6703IMG_6741


Conoor : Nature Unplugged

Only the widest angle lens can do justice to the sheer spread of Nature that is Coonoor.

Snuggled next to its more popular cousin, Ooty, that is teeming with tourists, Coonoor retains its serenity and sanity, as a happy result.

Remnants of the British who regarded Coonoor as a summer retreat are evident in the names of streets and markets, bakeries and quaint cottages spilling over with a profusion of vivacious flowers.

Perched on the mountains in spontaneous rows, the houses spring up in daring shades of pink, blue, green and even neon, as if trying hard to match the vivacity of the flora.

At 8000 ft above sea level, Coonoor has some of the highest tea estates in the world. As the car hugs the winding road, a gorgeous green thick carpet of neatly arranged tea plantations looks like a pattern of glistening waves.

Through the rolled down windows, the mist swoops down the blue mountains, and brushes your face, and brings in the unmistakable fragrance of eucalyptus infused with the sharp scent of pine. Interspersed with the birdsong of the Tickell’s Leaf Warbler, Indian Blackbird,Brown-breasted Flycatcher and the
Square-tailed Bulbul.

Coonoor. Every scene is framed and feted with all the senses.20171021_17164620171021_17332920171021_17344220171021_173504IMG_4176IMG_4178IMG_4202IMG_4203IMG_4206IMG_4243IMG_4247IMG_4250IMG_4255IMG_4256IMG_4314IMG_4317IMG_4323IMG_4324IMG_4325IMG_4403IMG_4471IMG_4680

Ireland Diaries

The temperamental Irish weather behaved itself during all of the 12 days that we visited this small island country with a big turbulent history.

Officially summertime, with just the right nip in the air to enjoy long walks enabled by clear sapphire  skies patterned with white tufts of clouds that seemed easy to pluck like vanilla candyfloss from the open blue space.

That and the lovely long stretches of the Atlantic Ocean lapping up to the cliffs and hugging the roads as the coaches and trains we travelled in made their winding way around towns of the island.

No better way to explore a new place than through its public transport as our experience has proven time and time again. So, we hopped on to the hop-on hop-off buses, caught the trains into different towns, and once within it, felt our way around it by its metro coaches.  We pored through maps standing at street corners trying to align ourselves to its direction. Found the numbers on the buses and where they stop at, names of streets and areas, all converging in our minds to make a map of the place, to accustom ourselves to its layout and pulse. We got lost several times, but then that was the fun, to get back on track, ask around, and discover other things that we may have missed. It’s surprising how well, and how soon we can get into the groove of a place this way.

The bright modern cafes and stone houses and statuesque churches of Dublin that hark back to another era. The port city of Waterford and its stunning museums alive with stories contained in exquisite 17th century artefacts, the famed Crystal Factory, dazzling in its artistry and the waterfront, lined with magnificent ships. Killarney, the scenic town flanked by mountains and frozen in time, with carriages drawn by plump, bushy-legged horses, each house straight out of an Enid Blyton book with lace curtains and window ledges strewn with gorgeous flowers; the porcelain crockery, very old-world British.  The city of Galway, the outskirts dotted with the ruins of medieval castles. And from it, a short ride away brings you to the stunningly scenic Cliffs of Moher, where an hour’s walk up takes you to a landscape open to the endless sky and sea and the gale winds that blow into the cliffs as they stand sentinel for ages over the ocean and grasslands. Right at the edge, where you stand buffeted by the strong wind, the seagulls come swooping by.

Through it all, there are Irish breakfasts of pudding, crepes with applesauce, French toasts served with a generous portion of strawberry syrup; Irish lunches with fresh fish and chips accompanied with tartar sauce and kipper; Irish dinners of seafood chowder with chunks of lobster. Every eatery we visited had their own version of apple pie, some tart, some sweet, served with scallops of light cream, each as different and delicious as the other. And of course, who can forget the Irish coffee, served on a bus halt at a charming café, the light drizzle and cold outside, and the frothy warm coffee shot inside!

As you leave the cities and towns, lush green fields stretch for miles into the horizon, and sheep with black snouts marked by different colours to distinguish them, graze under the watchful eye of the farmer who rounds them up as the day ends with his well-trained collie dogs.

Poised on a phase of transition, where a ferocious but rich past blends with a gentler, calmer today, the future hinges on a brink of divide as part of Ireland now belongs to Europe and the other, to UK. So strange is this rift, that some shops and houses will soon have an official border going through them.

But that’s tomorrow. For now, the horizon is smudged with orange grey clouds and night comes in at 10 in the evening and a gentle peace descends on the island. And it’s tempting to re- imagine your life here, flanked by medieval castles and meadows, stories and silence.






The last of the flamingoes

They came flying from far away
Now I’m under their spell…. (Abba)

Though the famed Abba number sings about the Eagle, the words are equally true for the flamingos that flock to the city during Mumbai’s tepid winters.

Flying all the way from the Rann of Kutch, where the cold gets severe, mainly during the nights to avoid predators, often covering 600 kms at a stretch, they swoop to shelter in the city, foraging for food at the Sewri jetty where they feed off algae produced by phosphorous and nitrogen deposits in the mud flats. 11051928_10153359977961723_8697071791885289040_o

Surrounded by thick mangroves on one side, and huge industrial ships spewing out oil, they dig into the waters with beaks that contain a unique filter that takes in nutrients and efficiently separates what they don’t need. The shrimps they eat give them their lovely hues of pink, for when they are born, they are a pristine white.

Early evening, and it was a different Mumbai that I saw. The jetty is an isolated strip of land. The land is muddy and uneven, and the only sounds you hear are the hooting of ships in the distance, and whirring of machinery on those docked around, as men in overalls repair them -sparks flying into the evening air. That and the cry of birds – terns, egrets, seagulls, sandpipers, bringing the hums of faraway lands. 12719228_10153359977316723_2342653058880565526_o

Fisher boys crawl through the mudflats on their bare knees, hunting for crabs and oysters and shrimps, coming up with unusual water creatures which they quickly bottle after taking a shot from their mobile phones. For a find is a find, and they want no one else to take credit or possession of what is theirs.12747903_10153359976961723_9046310924171318618_o

I have come here to watch what I think will be the last of the flamingos on this land. Their pink outline on the horizon breathtakingly beautiful, as close to 6000 of them peck at their food, and take off in flocks across the wetlands, as graceful as a bevy of pink attired ballerinas. 12711242_10153359976786723_5280684763256899056_o12747475_10153359976931723_7169098207106753908_o12764794_10153359977551723_3776085556577776955_o

The proposed Nhava Sheva sealink that will run straight through their migratory habitat will destroy the mudflats where flamingos and many other migratory birds feed. As they leave our shores sometime during April and go back to their home in Kutch, will they turn back and look for the last time? Will they know that they will never be able to find their way back again next year?

Light Play

Wake up to the melody of gurgling cold streams gushing over sinewy rocks in the rainforest. Their soothing murmur ushering you into a new day.

A welcome song with a live orchestra of a chorus of birds, the chirrup of squirrels and the hoot of monkeys. The light broken up into patterns by leaves filters into the room, entering in subdued patches and fragments at first, and as the sun climbs higher into the dense foliage, saunters in boldly with strides of beams that nudge the comfort of your blanket.

You watch the light play all over the day, shifting like a kaleidoscope over snug cane chairs, the veins of leaves, shading petals, forming arches over windows, creating mirror works of art on the ground and falling in love with faces, painting them with depth and character.

Transforming everything it touches, as if waving a wand over the day.

In its presence, each moment acquires a wondrous quality, connections are seen for the first time between previously disparate things.

You sit by the still waters and watch time dissolve at dusk. And as the year draws to an end, and the last light smudges and leaves the sky, the excited chatter of the birds returning to their nests dies down, and the sky sleeps on its bed of deep velvet embroidered with stars, you realise that time is a continuum. We have divided it into days, weeks, months, years-giving it a linearity, held it in place by a regimen of segments. Time goes on in an eternal circle without boundaries, without enclosures.

Nothing has begun, nothing has ended.



Monsoon Symphony

14054406_10153740420016723_3551005237697922918_oThe Sahyadri Hills come alive with the sound of the monsoons.

A rich carpet of the deepest greens soak in the bounty of the rain gods as they come over the valley, painting the landscape with the most breathtaking water colours.

It starts with the rustle of breeze circling through the trees, picks up crescendo as the wind swooshes through the landscape, gathering a concert of clouds, singing through the ebb and fall of rain drops that cascade over the valley.

The birds add their unique accompanying parts, the brooks too slip in their murmur and the waterfalls gush in unison.

And just like that, a surreal symphony is born…


Splendid New Zealand

Across miles of emerald meadows spread in lush waves as far as the eye can see, white fluffy lambs straight out of a fairy tale picture book graze through the day under their mother’s watchful shelter. When she moves, they quickly leave the grass they are eating and scurry behind her, and when she finds a good spot to stop, they contentedly bask in her shadow once again, nibbling at the grass from where they left off, and all is right with their world.

This single visual encapsulates all that the very picturesque New Zealand is.

Harmonious, homely, healthy and happy.

Puffing up their cheeks, tufts of cotton candy clouds move cheerfully across powder blue skies. Spring is over the horizon, but the winter chill hasn’t left the wind and almost without warning, the skies gather grey clouds behind the mountains and rain hailstones, and just as suddenly, the air turns clear and crisp as the sun beams through the valley.15068414_10153981376926723_7948001987441045556_o

There’s a feeling of space, for there will be miles where no one seems to inhabit the expanse save neat rows of trees, perfectly trimmed grasslands, a house here and there, horses, sheep and lambs grazing as the sun warms the icy wind that ruffles through the open fields, punctuated by bird song, and contented bleats; and a serene silence that runs through it all.

Scattered throughout the scenic drive that invariably accompanies us when we shift towns, are niche restaurants (like salmon farms) and bakeries that turn out farm fresh goodies, – fruit filled scones served with fresh cream and delicious jam, and fruit stores that are laden with the choicest handpicked home grown fruits; the apples we ate seem to have fallen straight from heaven’s orchards, the delicious strawberries, full-bodied and blood-red.
The people are very warm, smiling and helpful: open-hearted like the lovely land they inhabit. Though volcanic-prone, the shifts have given birth to some of the most magnificent landscapes – from geysers, sulphur springs, mud pools, fjords and glaciers, gigantic waterfalls and layered mountains that flank sparkling turquoise blue waters, and at some points, they all come together in a single breath-taking frame.

Such a sweeping expanse calls for activities that make the most of the terrain, and the honest-to-goodness skies.

So, we rode the Segway all through stunning Queenstown, zipped down on the Luge and the more adventurous of us did the Bungee jump and skydived from 12000 feet. And of course, the invigorating treks and ambling walks fuelled by the snow-scented mountain air.

New Zealand. Really little else can lift the senses, move the spirit and speak to the soul more easily, more happily, and more exquisitely.